Ask Jeff - Archive Page 1

Jeff, you seem to be a great fan and a wealth of knowledge on the Freedom Arms sixguns. I would like to know your thoughts on the inverted crown option offered by them. Are there advantages to this option other than the appearance? Thanks for your time and help.

It protects the crown from knocks and dings that might hurt the weapon's accuracy.

Great site. I have a Ruger Single Six (SN# 4592XX) marked under the grips XR3-RED. I want new grips. I'm confused what I need. From what I understand the XR3-RED suppose to be after 1973. Thanks for any help.

The XR3RED has been used from the early 1960s, and is still in use today. It is the most common grip frame on the Single Six, the original Vaquero,and the Blackhawks. Check out Bill Hamm's article on Ruger SA grip frames for more info.

Firstly, thank you for such a great resource. I am looking for a new carry gun while at my place of business, traveling to the bank, home, etc. I now have a Para P12 in .45. After 2 months of carry, I tend to leave it at home now more often than not. I thought it was small and would do the trick when I bought it, but now feel that it is just too big and heavier than I would like it to be. Also, I live in South Florida where outer wear is almost nonexistent. I mostly wear slacks and a shirt, tucked in.

Some first thoughts were a S&W Sigma in 9mm, a Kahr CW9, Kel-Tec P11 or possibly a Glock 26. Of course, price is somewhat of a concern. Would you please shed some light on your experiences with the mentioned firearms and possibly throw in your two cents?

In advance, I really appreciate any help.

Thank you,

Brian

Those are all good guns, and any would serve you well, but they do require a holster, and you might end up leaving them behind also. For everyday, everywhere, I carry a S&W 342PD loaded with blue Glasers.

Hi there again Jeff -

You've been of great help to me over the past couple years that I have asked Gunblast pertinent questions regarding my own personal use of handguns.

This is no exception in terms of importance. I am moving my family back to Idaho, as a familial-based continuity of life just isn't happening nor possible here in L.A. I have an Idaho CCW of which I'll also be renewing, and I am highly considering switching from a conventional double action/single action pistol (a Beretta 96D) to a Springfield 4" Mil-Spec .45 (which I also plan to personalize over time with after-market parts, etc.; I'm just getting into the 1911 milieu - and I'm hooked :-)

Would you ever recommend or concur with carrying a SA pistol concealed W/O a round chambered but w/ safety "Off", so as in the moment of needing to defend oneself, one would actually have to chamber a round and then acquire the target?

I ask only because it seems to me that in order to be fully efficient in such a terrible circumstance for anyone, a significant amount of extra training might be required if carrying a SA gun "cocked & locked".

The thing is, after al these years owning and carrying a multitude of different handguns / calibers, NOTHING compares to the utility and just plain old trust-factor of a 1911 .45

Thanks once again - this site is unparalleled - it's the first one in my "Favorites" box!

Regards,

I would not carry it with an empty chamber. If you ever do need it in a crisis situation, you will need it quick, and you might only have one hand free to operate the weapon. Cocked and locked is the only way to go with a 1911.

Jeff, I just found this site and have read your articles on the newer model 94 Winchesters with the top tang safety. My question is - have you had any problems with your hand hitting the safety back to safe when gripping it to shoot? Seems like it (the safety) would be in the way. I am thinking of purchasing a Ranger model to accompany my Trapper.

Dan

Ok, sir, you rock! Jeff, I greatly enjoyed your write-up on this rifle: http://www.gunblast.com/Winchester-Ranger357.htm. However, where DO I find a brand new Winchester Model 94 Ranger Compact .357 Magnum? The Winchester web site does not appear to list this particular piece. Are they currently offered? I do not have the cash in hand yet so I have not attempted to contact Winchester directly nor have I asked any local gun dealers. I looked quickly on the Lipsey's site and did not see any of this model and configuration. I am saving furiously to be able to buy the fine firearm you so eloquently praised in your article. Hopefully I won't have to accept a substitute or used gun. Oh, one last question: How on Earth do I convince my wife that I NEED one? :-)

Winchester no longer makes the Compact, but the Trapper is pretty much the same gun, but with better quality wood, and it costs a bit more. Tell that sweet little woman that it is for home security, so that you can better protect her.

I have a guy that wants to sell me a Thompson 1927 M1 submachine gun. Do you know anywhere I can find a price on it? He gave me it to look at and try to find a price for it. Thanks a lot for your help.

If it is an original M1, full auto, it is worth about $4500, if it is legal. If it is illegal, it will get you 5 years in the Federal Pokey minimum.

You recently reviewed Savage's 12FVLSS. I was very interested in the firearm and tried to further research it without much luck. I found it online twice but it was only in a left-handed, .223 model. It was also not equipped with the Choate stock. Did Savage stop making it with certain features or am I just lost on something.

Thank you, Kris

The "L" in the model number is for left-handed. The 12VSS is the right-handed gun with the Choate stock, and the 12FVSS is the right-handed gun with the standard stock. They are still in production.

Jeff, I have a Texas Longhorn Arms, Grover's Improved Number 5 pistol, 44 mag. # K257. I purchased it new from Bill Grover approximately 12 years ago. At the time I paid approximately $1000.00 for it. They are beautifully made and is very accurate.

I understand that Bill Grover passed away in 2004 and the pistol are no longer being made. I did a search to try to find out about a T.L.A. Collectors Association, but found nothing. I would like to know how many were made and the approximate collectors value. I will be 60 in December and I want to get my collection in order, should something happen to me. Sincerely,

Doug,

Bill Grover was a fellow Shootist (www.shootists.com), but as I am honored to be a relatively new member of this fine organization and Grover was in failing health for a few years, I never had the honor of meeting him. I passed your question on to a couple of good friends, gun writers and fellow Shootists who own TLA sixguns, and the following is what they told me.

Jim Taylor is a contributing writer to Gunblast.com, Chairman of the Shootists, a good friend of Bill Grover's, and proud owner of TLA sixguns. Here's what he said:

"Boge .. the 2005 Standard Catalog of Firearms says the serial numbers run from K1 through K1200 ... though I don't know if that many were made. I have one of the last West Texas Flattop Target Models .. it's in the 700 range. There is a TLA Owner's Group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TLA_Collectors/?yguid=99412734. Jim"

John Taffin, dean of today's gun writers and IMO successor to the mantle of past greats like Elmer Keith and Skeeter Skelton, is founder and past President of the Shootists. He was a very close friend of Bill Grover's, owns many TLA sixguns (including several #5s), and was instrumental in bringing Grover's sixguns the recognition they deserve. Here's what he had to say:

"DON'T HAVE A CLUE AS TO HOW MANY WERE MADE BUT WOULD GUESS LESS THAN A THOUSAND. JT"

I hope this helps. Congratulations, you have what is, in my opinion, one of the finest sixguns ever made.

God Bless, and Happy Thanksgiving!

Boge Quinn

I am looking for a small game revolver. I was thinking about getting a Ruger Blackhawk in .30 Carbine and wanted to hear your take on it. I really prefer a centerfire so I can reload.

THANKS!

Jim

I have a Blackhawk .30 carbine, and really love it. It should be just perfect. It can be loaded down with semi-wadcutters for edible game, and loaded hot with jacketed soft point ammo for coyotes and such. Good choice.

Since I only have one eye the purpose of a scout rifle; shooting with both eyes open, is moot. However, I do like the idea of being able to use my open sights if my scope fails. Having said that I have a question regarding scope mounts. What is your opinion of the "see-through" style scope mounts/rings? One of my more experienced friends counseled that the higher a scope sits the easier it is to knock "off."

I despise "see through" mounts. The scope should be mounted low to all ow the check to rest firmly on the stock. I suggest a set of Leupold Quick Detach mounts.

Looking for a good deer rifle for my eleven year old. He is a small frame boy . He needs something without a lot of recoil. His shots will be within 100 yards. Most a lot closer. Looking for something not to expensive.

Since Hurricane Katrina and other disturbing events, I am in the market for a defensive auto loader pistol. I have read your evaluation of the Taurus PT 145SS and it pretty well made up my mind for me. The others that I have considered, however, are the Kimber UltraCarry II, and the KAHR P45. Of the three, which one offers the best all around value, reliability, and serviceability, in your opinion? Also, does or will Taurus offer the PT145 with a Titanium slide? Size and weight are a concern. They offer the Titanium slide in 9mm, but I am set on a .45 ACP.

All of those are good weapons, and should serve you well. Try to handle them all to see which fits you the best. Also look closely at the Ruger P345, and the Glock. At this time Taurus has announced no plans to offer a Titanium .45.

First time handgun owner here. Bought a Ruger GP 100 357 w/adjustable sight. My question is, can the trigger pull be lightened up, and perhaps the length of the pull shortened somehow? It's pretty stiff and I notice that by the time I have the trigger squeezed to the point of releasing the hammer (the end of it's travel) it is beginning to pinch my fingertip between the trigger and trigger guard and would be nice if it released the hammer about 1/8" further out. Any of this possible?

Thank You,

Runswith Scissors
Reseda, CA

I'm a person who likes to shoot but is on a tight budget but i want to be able to go hunting medium-size game. What kind of rifle do you recommend?

It would be hard to beat the new Stevens 200 for a new rifle. A good used .30-30 lever action Marlin or Winchester can be purchased fairly cheaply, and would also serve you well.

I am just about to head back from Iraq after a 18 month deployment (oh JOY! not..) anyways, so I'm looking into picking up a good .44mag lever gun and a revolver in the same caliber that I can use to hunt everything from deer, to the hogs and javalina in Texas...what rifles do you suggest? Also, do you think that the 44mag in a lever gun is a bit much for my very small woman (5'3" 114lbs, but she says she's 'sturdy') what sorta things might i do to make this a more pleasant experience for her?

Spc Eric Billings
Bco 2-116th
Kirkuk, Iraq

I was recently mugged, and am now extremely cautious about security, especially in my car. Is there a pistol of some sort that would fit in my glove box or under my seat, or even in my handbag?

I'm just wondering what would be the best blaster for dealing with bullet proof vests?

I have two(2) questions to ask.

1)I would like to know what you would suggest as the absolute best .45 ACP ammunition for self defense. Recoil is no issue to me. I am currently carrying a Wilson Combat Protector and/or a Wilson Combat Protector.

2)I keep a Remington 870 loaded with full house slugs for backup in my truck say the need arise. The problem is i am looking for a high powered revolver to store instead for trips that i take were space may be limited, what would you suggest.

Jeff,

I have got a Ruger Single Six .22LR Revolver, 5 1/2" barrel, with the 3 screw, flat gate, and they have set of Ruger Ivory Grips on them. Now I can find out what the gun is worth, but I can not find a value on the amount the gun is would the ivory grips on it. I am trying to find out as much as I can about this gun before listing it for sale in our gun shop. Any information someone could give me would help much. Thanks y'all in advance.

Amber

Hi there.

I aim (pardon the pun) to put an XS Ghost Ring sight system on my Marlin Guide Gun and will remove the factory rear sight at the same time. It occurs to me, however, that in removing the original rear sight I would be creating a gap in the gun's "lines".

My question is: Is there such a thing as a filler piece of some description made by anybody? It'd be nice to remove that sight and retain the integrity of the gun's good looks.

I just started reloading primers in used casings and will be adding wax bullets for indoor practice shooting over the winter. I've been using the Lee auto prime system to put in the primers. I am careful to ensure that the primer fits flush to the shell. My problem is this. After firing, the spent primer backs out of the casing just enough to prevent the cylinder from turning. I use a .45 cal. Ruger Vaquero and have to remove the cylinder after each time I fire. Is this because the used casing may be misshapen from prior use? Would I be better off using shells just fired once by myself. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

When shooting wax bullets, you need to set aside some cases just for this, and not use them for regular bullet loads. For your wax bullets, you must drill out the flash hole in the primer pocket to a larger diameter. A one-eighth drill bit works well. With the larger flash hole, your primers will not back out of the case.

Hi, I am on a quest. I recently bought one of the new Bushmaster Carbon-15 pistols, type 97S with the full rail. I love the pistol and am desperately trying to find a thigh holster rig for it. I found a photo of one for an M-4 carbine rifle but was told it was from a Korean website. I hope you have a suggestion or if you can point me in the direction of someone who can custom make one. Thanks

Hello: I just finished an older review of the Winchester Ranger 357. I bought one a couple of years ago and it has become a favorite. I would like to mount an aperture rear sight instead of a scope on this angle eject model without drilling for a side mount. Do you know what may be available using the factory scope holes?

Good Afternoon,

I am looking for your opinion on bore sights. Just wondering what type or brand you prefer?

Thanks.

Gary

I bought a Ruger Super Red Hawk 454 Casull with a 7 1/2" barrel from a buddy of mine. What is the maximum range of this gun for shooting a whitetail deer? What range would you recommend for sighting in the scope?

I would sight it in for 100 yards, and limit your shots to the distance that you can hit an eight-inch paper plate everytime from an offhand position.

I am involved with Cowboy Action Shooting. I want to reload some 45 LC for my rifle. I have been told I cannot use round nose lead bullets because they may impact the primer on the round in front of it while in the tube magazine.

QUESTION: Is there a good way to flatten the end of the round nose bullets before they are put into the case, thus forming a legal "round nose flat point?

Lefty in Utah

I have a Taurus 605 2inch barrel and i read your article about Trail Boss powder and was wandering if it would be a good choice for light target loads in 357 and 38spc. New to your website and really enjoy it. Hope to become a member soon.

Scout scopes usually have the eye relief set up for mounting about 8 to 12 inches from the shooter's eye. Handgun scopes are built for eye relief out at arms' length.

I am looking for some bullets (Hard Cast or Jacketed) to load in an older Ruger Vaquaro .45 Colt. I would use them primarily for Brown/Black Bear protection here in Alaska. I normally shoot Cowboy Action with my reloads that run around 750 - 800 fps or so. What would your recommendation be; as I don't want to buy a .44 Mag and don't like excessive recoil?

Thanks,
Greg

I would load some heavy, like a 300 grain, cast bullet from Cast Performance or Mt. Baldy to about 1000 feet per second. They will do the job well, without excessive recoil.

Jeff, can I shot 300 +P+ Ammo in my new Beretta Stampede 45 LC? It almost comes up to a 44 Mag. Load in ballistics. I own a Ruger New Model Super Blackhawk 44 Mag. 7.5 in barrel but it is heavier than I want to carry. What Load could I use in the New Beretta to Deer Hunt without blowing up my gun? Will it stand the power that a Ruger will? Or should I just stick with the Ruger Blackhawk 44 Mag. for hunting?

You guys have a great site and I'm especially proud that you are Tennesseans. You certainly have the greatest influence on my gun decisions and purchases.

Not unless you want the cylinder to come apart in your hand. Please do not do this. The Stampede will take any game in North America with a good 250 to 285 grain Keith bullet at 1000 fps. No need to push it. The Stampede is a fine sixgun, but it is not as strong as a Ruger Blackhawk. Cor-Bon has some good whitetail hunting ammo. Any of their personal defense ammo will work fine for deer. Do not shoot their heavy Plus P ammo in the Stampede.

Jeff:

I enjoy your site.

I own a Kimber .308 rifle and am thinking of selling. It only holds 3 rounds. I like the accuracy and safety, but to load it is a bit difficult. First load all 3 rounds into magazine. Then close bolt while pushing down on top of internal mag. Then open action, cycle bolt and close action. this leaves you with one in the chamber, two in the mag. Do not try to open action and top off mag, because "claw" extractor will grab the chambered round. (all as per Kimber manual).

With regular Winchester action, its easy to have a full mag w/ loaded chamber because you can load a round directly into the chamber, push down on the full magazine and close action. "Claw" extractor will grab the seated round w/o a problem.

What do you think?

You are correct. A push feed design allows that. Also, the Browning is even better. The magazine swings down with the floor plate, allowing the magazine to be topped off without opening the action.

Hi,
I read all kinds of things about caliber effectiveness. Most would agree that the 9mm in FMJ is not a truly desirable round. I've also heard stories about .45's not penetrating or stopping the goblin. What is the truth? Would a .45 with a sabot and 9mm JHP give the penetration and velocity to make a truly effective round? I know a Rifle is the only way to go for true effectiveness and just about anything in a close up headshot will work. But for times when a long gun is not feasible what can someone truly trust their life to?

Fred Huff

Shot placement is the key. I would rather have a .22 magnum with which I was confident in my ability than a .45 with which I could not hit. I usually carry a .38 loaded with Glasers.

I thoroughly enjoyed your article on the Ruger New Vaquero. Sounds like a SUPERB revolver! I have been looking at the New Vaquero and the Taurus Gaucho, and can't seem to make up my mind. Have you tried the Gaucho? I would be interested to hear any comparisons you may have between the 2 revolvers, as I will be buying one very soon. Thanks in advance for any assistance you may be able to provide in this matter.

I could not decide either. I ended up buying both, and recently added another Vaquero in 7 1/2 inch. Here is the article on the Taurus:

http://www.gunblast.com/Taurus_Gaucho.htm

I enjoyed your article on the mini 14 .I had one in the mid 80s ,I loved it. I spent 4 years in the USMC once I got out I felt I needed to get a AR15.I got a Bushmaster. It jammed once a trip to the range. I sold it because it didn't make me feel safe. I recently decided that I was going to purchase a Mini 14 again. After looking at all the negative things so many Web sites say about it I'm not sure. I want it to be able to keep me safe in the event of another Katrina storm. I live in Florida so that's a good possibility .Are the new Minis in stainless with the synthetic stock a good choice? besides the Ramline mag are there any other mags on the market that are good. I think that most of the bad press about this rifle comes from like you say it not being the newest carbon fiber toy.

John

The stainless/fiber rifle would be an excellent choice. I prefer the genuine Ruger mags to all others. I see them at gun shows selling new for about $30 each. I would trust my life to a Mini-14. They are very reliable.

Jeff

Sir, I just acquired a 32 Colt Police Positive ( pat.1884 July 4 1905 ser.# 109092) with black plastic grips. The pistol is in excellent condition; I don't think it was ever fired. It is fire blue in color in with a 3.1/2 in. barrel. Could you please tell me the type of ammunition this pistol would use? I read your article and you mentioned a number of different rounds. Is mine a pocket police model or just a police positive? 32SW , 32 Colt long, 32 Colt short ? ammo available? Also, Are these pistols ok to shoot after 75 years? Just your opinion.

I have owned guns for most of my adult life – all revolvers. I have become relatively proficient with my Ruger GP-100 and my S&W 60. After shooting several semis, I am now ready to make that purchase. I have narrowed my choices down to these two: the S&W 1911 or the Beretta 92FS 9mm. Any advice, pros & cons, would be greatly appreciated.

I used to reload quite a bit and so loaded hollow point semi jacketed 115 grain bullets for my Taurus PT111, but my son convinced me to buy factory self-defense rounds of 147 grain. I can't afford to shoot them for practice, and notice el cheapo FMJ rounds fire really low and to the left.

Also, I'd like to get a laser sight for this pistol, and there seems to be nothing around for it! Would a generic trigger guard mount work for me? I usually put my left forefinger on that rest for accuracy.

I do not like trigger guard lasers because of their bulk. They make it really hard to get a holster that fits. I would suggest tritium night sights instead.

Jeff, I am looking for a very accurate 17 cal. I have read some of your articles about the 17. I have 2 Savage rifles and like the AccuTrigger very much. I would like to shoot small varmints (crows, etc) out to 200 yds. Is the 17 fairly flat to 200 yds? Which type of 17 cartridge should I use (17HMR)? What brand and model do you suggest? What ammunition exhibits the best accuracy? I have looked at the 17HMR rifles on the Savage website, and they do not mention them having AccuTriggers. Would another brand be better? I trust and appreciate your opinion.

I really like the Savage, but the trigger on the .17 is nothing like the AccuTrigger. It can be greatly improved by a gunsmith, however. I would try every available brand of ammo to see which works best in the rifle that you choose. One guy who can work real magic on a Savage 17 is Michael McLain. He does a real good trigger job for a reasonable (cheap) price. Give him a call at: 931-827-3332. Tell him that I recommended the Savage or the CZ.

I have a question concerning my dream rifle. I borrowed a Savage from one of my dad's friends for the day and I must say, it was an experience like no other! I have agreed with myself and your advice to save for a Savage firearm. Here's my question to you: I want to be able to hunt animals from beer to moose with this rifle. Don't worry, I'm not a bear hunter. Anyway, I want a rifle caliber that is suitable for all of these animals BUT wont make me flinch too much after 2 or 3 shots. What would you recommend?

The grand old .30-06. With 150 grain bullets, it is perfect for whitetail and antelope. 165 for caribou, 180 for elk and moose, and 200 to 220 for the big bears.

Mr. Quinn, In regard to your article on the Ruger NEW Vaquero Colt .45, is there a safe load for it that will stop/kill the brown bear of north central New Mexico ? I have read at 25-30 yds and at 1000fps a 255gr Speer Gold Dot has the same impact trauma as .357magnum and makes a larger hole. The area that we would would need protection will be such that 30 yds would be as far as you could see due to trees. I don't think my wife can handle a .44 mag.

That Gold Dot would probably work, but I would prefer a hard cast Keith or LBT type bullet at about the same speed. It would penetrate deeper.

Hi there, first of all I just want to add that you guys run an outstanding website, I have come here often to look up reviews on guns I can't find anywhere else and it's very nice to know that you give the most information as possible so keep up the good work. Ok so anyways, I have a question for you, I recently bought a S&W 500 and we were using 350 grain loads and at about the 3rd round, the pin did not ignite the primer and there was an indent there, so we tried again and it didn't go, so I just tossed the 3 dollar bullet away. Then, after 20 rounds, the gun started to lock up or get stuck and I couldn't rotate the cylinder unless I used my other hand to move it. But then mysteriously, I kept messing with it and now it cycles fine like nothing ever happened. So I ask you, what happened? I was going to get it fixed at S&W but I looked at a lot of forums and it seems that many people have gotten there guns in worse condition than what it was before they sent it. So do you know of anybody that can make the 500 a reliable piece of hardware, like putting better springs in or tinkering with it to function perfectly? Any custom work, or gunsmiths that can make it 100%, please let me know if you know of anybody and I would really appreciate it. Thanks a lot and keep up the good work! :)

Evan

I can only speculate, but it sounds as if you had a burr or metal shaving in the works somewhere that finally worked itself out. Keep shooting it. If it gives you more problems, contact S&W and insist that they fix it.

Jeff, I read your July article on the Ruger Ranch Rifle and have been looking to purchase a new rifle. I enjoy shooting ground squirrels in Northern California and have been doing so with my Ruger 10/22. I like the semi-auto guns for this purpose but want to be able to get out a little further. The Mini-14 Ranch seems the perfect answer but my sons are trying to talk me into a bolt action 223 Varmint heavy 26" barrel like the Savage or Remington....

Last year when we went shooting these ground squirrels, I shot close to 3000 rounds through the 10/22. I know that ammo is much less expensive and plan on being more selective about my shots with a 223, but I am not sure if I would be happy with a bolt action..

Just curious what you would buy, given the situation??

Thanks,

I have a first production Piney Flats TN Thunder Five revolver. I was curious if I could shoot 454 Casull in this gun since it is also offered in 45/70.

Thanks,

Rick

Based on your article and a couple of others, I just bought a new Ruger Single Six .22 LR "Hunter", and I'm looking forward to using it as soon as the wind chill factor here rises to positive numbers.

I'm a fairly decent shot with a shotgun. This is my first handgun. I have a couple of questions that I am sure you can answer.

First, a friend who shoots handguns a lot told me that it was "common knowledge" that a .22LR rimfire semiauto was inherently more accurate than a wheel gun of approximately the same quality and barrel length. For the life of me, I cannot figure out why this would be the case. Perhaps the semi needs less hand movement for a repeat shot, but might there be another reason? It seems to me that a decent wheel gun, such as the Ruger in question, with a 7.5" barrel would be damned accurate.

Second, what would you recommend to clean the gun? Any particular product or combo of products or method?

Third, for good "plinking" accuracy, freedom from misfires, et cetera, got any favorite rounds?

Thanks!

Your friend was partly right. It is EASIER to build an accurate semi-auto than to build an accurate revolver. The revolver has six chambers instead of one, and each has to precisely line up with the barrel. However, some of the most accurate handguns in the world are revolvers. Both types of handguns can be much more accurate than I can hold. For ammo, get a variety of suitable ammo to see what your guns shoots best, then practice a lot, and show your friend just how accurate that Ruger is.

At that time, that was the way that Ruger built them. It is an excellent revolver.

Jeff

Here on Cape Cod in eastern Massachusetts we are overrun with coyotes. At certain times of year by law we are limited to hunting them with handguns chambered no larger than .38 cal. What would you suggest is the most efficient caliber to use given that limitation. I would like to use a revolver with a scope mounted. Most shots would be in medium dense woods 50 yards or under. Most coyotes here are crossed with red wolves and go 50 to 70 lbs.

I would use a Ruger Single Six Hunter in .22 Magnum. The Hunter comes with a scope mount integral with the barrel. If you want something larger, a Smith & Wesson .357 magnum with at least a six-inch barrel should seve very well, as they are drilled for a scope mount.

I have a Pact powder dispenser with the scale. I noticed that Lil'Gun left a lot of residue on the inside of the dispenser. Have you found this with your setup?

Most likely the powder sticking to the measure is due to static electricity. Rub the outside of the powder hopper with a dryer sheet.

Hi Jeff,

I'm interested in getting a large caliber conversion for the AR-15 style rifle. The two rifles and calibers I'm interested in are the Alexander Arms .50 Beowulf Overwatch (the 24" barreled monster) and the .458 SOCOM by Tromix. I'm also considering Tromix's .50AE model, as well.

What are your opinions regarding those rifles? Ballistics, reliability, quality, etc. I've read your articles on the standard .50 Beowulf offered by Alexander Arms, as well as the Overwatch version of the rifle, and I admit that I'm leaning more heavily towards the Beowulf, but any information you can provide would be most appreciated.

Also, on a mostly unrelated note, I'm also considering a big-bore handgun. My two top choices here are the .454 Casull by Ruger and the .50 AE chambering of the Desert Eagle. I'm leaning towards the Desert Eagle, even though its more expensive and the .454 Casull has slightly better ballistics. Any thoughts regarding those two handguns? Another consideration...if I go with the Desert Eagle, would it be worth then more seriously considering the .50AE Tromix rifle?

Thanks, and keep up the great work!

I also looked at the SOCOM, .499 Leitner-Wise, and the Beowulf. Yesterday, I purchased the Beowulf with the 16 inch barrel. I like the people at Alexander Arms, and they certainly build a great rifle. Also, brass and ammo is readily available for the Beowulf.

Jeff,

I noticed in your article on the Ruger #1 Tropical in .405 Winchester,
that you drove 300gr cast bullets to nearly 2400fps. This seems quite
fast.

Did you get any leading? How much? How many shots could you fire until
accuracy deteriorated?

I just obtained a #1 Tropical in .458. I am wanting to get 350gr CAST
bullets to 2200fps. Do you have any recommendations to maximize
accuracy and reduce or eliminate leading?

Thanks for your opinions,

RangerBob

I used Mt. Baldy gas check lead bullets, and experienced no leading at all. The bullet alloy is very good, and the gas check eliminates flame cutting the lead base.

I own a rifle chambered for 5.56 and would like to know what the possible side effects of firing .223 in my rifle would be?

There will be no adverse effects. They are basically the same cartridge, except that 5.56mm is loaded to NATO specs, and .223 is a bit milder, loaded to SAAMI specs.

I have a Model Winchester G9483CCH lever action Crazy Horse commemorative rifle. How do I find out the value of this rifle? I have the original box, plus an
envelope with two Crazy Horse 13 cent stamps postmarked Crazy Horse, South
Dakota. Thanks for your help!

For the value on any commemorative Winchester, go to: www.cherrys.com. They keep a complete list. I also have one, serial CCH952. This is a great rifle, and fun to shoot.

Hello. I plan on shooting a bison on a local game farm, for the meat. I am going to use my Taurus Raging bull 454 Casull with 6 inch barrel. I have worked up several loads for the gun and am very impressed with the performance. My question is, would you choose a 325 grain LBT solid cast bullet at 1533 fps, or a 240 grain Hornady XTP magnum bullet at 1838 fps. I do not have any medium to test the bullets performance in. My goal is a 1 shot kill, since the ranch owner is not too keen on the use of pistols on his farm. Any input you might have on this subject, such as loads, performance figures, past experience, or your ideas of how ethical it is to shoot a game farm animal, would be appreciated. Thanks,

By all means, please use the cast LBT bullet, cast hard. The XTP is perfect for deer, but the LBT should offer better penetration. Game farm hunting really depends upon the farm. It is a very good way to harvest a bison for meat.

How many options are there in a .44 mag semi-auto handgun? I hear there is pistol called a Grizzly - who is it made by, and is it new? Thanks again...

I have acquired a .357 caliber Ruger New Model Blackhawk. It says on the top of the barrel, "Made in the 200th year of American liberty". Can you give me any information about this gun? It is at least a 6-inch barrel with wood grips. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

It is commonly referred to as a "Liberty Model". Ruger placed this marking on all guns produced in 1976, and it is worth about $75 more than a comparable gun without the inscription.

Jeff

Jeff, I have a1852 Sharps rifle used in the Civil War in pristine condition. I had it appraised and they said it was worth today around $6500; do you think the value will go up and is there a market for this item? I do not know what to do with this gun? Keep it or sell it?

Joe, the value will most likely increase. It is probably better than money in the bank. At least you can enjoy the Sharps, if you like shooting it. However, you could also sell the rifle and buy something that you would really like to have. Life is short. I would either shoot the Sharps, or use the money to buy other guns. Either way, you can't lose.

Jeff

I read your review of the Kel-Tec 380. Do you all carry this? And do you think the .380 has enough power for a PRIMARY gun? Thank you!

Boge is carrying this gun almost on a daily basis. Like any handgun, it is a compromise between power, weight, and concealability. If you know a fight is coming, a shotgun or rifle is a better weapon. The Kel-Tec has the ability to be with you ALWAYS, and loaded with proper ammunition I would not feel undergunned with one.

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

I spent the better part of my work day so far absorbing everything I could from your website. The biggest thing I noticed is that you are a lefty. I am interested in purchasing my first 1911-type pistol. I've done a bit of casual handgun shooting over the years in different models and calibers but have yet to own a .45 of any type let alone a 1911. (I have shot a couple Glocks in .45 and found them decent to shoot).

Here is my question: You being a lefty, is there any particular model of 1911 you recommend these days? I'm looking to do some informal target shooting and possibly participating in a league or two or some small competitions. Any thoughts you can provide would be most helpful.

Thanks!

Pete

All you need is one with a left-handed thumb safety, or ambidextrous safety. The other controls (mag release and slide release) can be worked very easily with your trigger finger.

Jeff

Jeff:
I just bought a Stevens 411 in 12 ga. When I select the left barrel to shoot first, the safety lever moves to the safe position immediately upon firing of the left barrel. Thus I have to again push the safety lever to the fire position in order to fire the right barrel This occurs only if a shell is actually fired. Does not happen when dry fired.

When I select the right barrel to shoot first, I can shoot the right barrel and then I can immediately fire the left barrel with out having to move the safety lever (this would be what I would expect to happen).

Does your sample of the 411 exhibit this behavior? Is it normal for side-by-side shotguns with single triggers (my previous experience is only with double triggers)?

Clint

This is not normal. Call Savage and see what they want you to do. They might have you send it in, or they might have a warranty station close to you. Keep me posted.

I took the 411 to a Savage warranty station and they fixed it while I waited there. They said the detent for the safety lever was a little shallow and they simply enlarged it a little and all is well. Thanks for your info and advice. I enjoyed reading through your web site.

That's great news. I hope that you enjoy you new shotgun, and thanks for reading Gunblast!

Jeff

I have always wanted to load and shoot the 38-55 and the 32-40 WCF. At first I could not find the old guns at prices I could afford. So I got barrels made for the Thompson/Contenders. Then found the darn things to hard to open, as my hands got weaker with arthritis. Also was never able to find good mild loads - to me mild is from 1200 to 1600 fps -- now I see I can get the 336 Marlin in 35-55 WCF. My question is with a cast bullet weighing from 250 to 275 or so can I expect to get good results using Accurate 5744? From what I read this seems to be a powder acceptable for lead bullets and pressures are on the low side.

Do you have any experience or observation that might be of use to me?

Thanks,

I have a Colt SAA clone in 44-40. I'd like to be able to shoot 44 Special with it. Is any conversion necessary, or can I just drop a 44 Special cylinder in it and fire away? Thanks!

First check the bore diameter. Many .44-40 revolvers were made to shoot bullets of .427 diameter, while .44 Special bullets are .429 to .430. If the bore diameter is okay, a new cylinder is all you need.

Jeff

Sirs, I read your review article of the S&W 500 Magnum on your internet site and thought you did a superb job of describing all the attributes, characteristics, and overall performance of this revolver. I particularly welcomed your candid (objective) disclosure that the cylinder tends to rotate freely backward after shooting. You diagnosed a cure for the problem would simply be a stronger cylinder stop spring. I just bought this model pistol a week ago & have not fired it yet and wondered if S&W might be contemplating issuing a recall to 500 owners for this deficiency? Would you have any recommendation on how I should proceed from here for S&W to make the necessary modification? Any help regarding this concern would be appreciated.

Kevin,
Shoot your gun first to determine if yours has a problem. It might not need anything. If it has a problem, call S&W. They will send you a shipping label to return the gun for repair.

What's a kit gun? I was looking at the S&W catalog. The Model 360 is an ultra-lightweight .357 they call a kit gun. Any idea what that means, and where the name came from? It looks like S & W has copyrighted the name.

The term "Kit Gun" came into general use over 80 years ago, and refers to a fisherman's or outdoorsman's "kit" or tackle box. The idea was for a light, compact gun that could be stowed in the kit.

Jeff

Hello, I enjoy reading your excellent articles. I am passing along my experience with the .500 S&W Magnum.

These guns still have major problems to be worked out.

I have serial # BCE5184 which S&W shipped from their factory on 9/12/03.

The action cannot be completely cycled now (at least on one chamber) It cycled perfectly when I purchased it, prior to shooting today.

I was able to get exactly three rounds out of the gun. Loading one round into the cylinder at a time. Firing, opening, reloading one chamber and then when thumbing back the hammer, found I could not cock the gun. The problem was not there until the first round was fired.

Thanks for your thoughts and keep up the great work!

TRW

October 9, 2003

I would take the gun back to the dealer to be sent to S&W. They will fix it under warranty. Keep me posted.

Jeff

First off, you have a great website!!

I just purchased a Springfield Loaded Operator. I was pleased with the fit and finish, and went to the range. The range was very discouraging. At 25yrds I wasn't hitting the target at all. I moved the target to 10yrds and with bench rest and sand bags tried again. I was getting tight groups, but all were 3.5 inches low at 10yrds. I used 230 FMJ Winchester and 230 JHP Federal Hydra-Shok. Both were 3.5 inches low at 10 yrds.

I call Springfield and they told me there wasn't anything wrong with the gun!!

I have sent it back to Springfield and asked them to correct the problem. They said it will take 5-7 weeks to get it back to me.

This is the first time I have sent a gun to the manufacturer, is the 5-7 weeks normal? I feel like I got the short end of the deal, what do you suggest I do? Any idea how I can get them to get it back to me faster?

Thanks for your help and time.

John

John, it should not take that long. All you need is a shorter front sight.

Jeff

Jeff, in your article about the Freedom Arms .32 caliber revolver there is a photo of you shooting it from a bench with a rest. It appears that the butt is on part of the rest and the barrel is also supported on the front part of the rest. I have read various places that it is best to not have the butt or barrel touching a rest. Apparently you are having good success with your technique. Is the rest pictured available for sale? Would it work for heavy recoiling 45 Colt loads? I am always looking for a better way to shoot accurately. My goal is to work up a load that equals the guns' potential and then practice with that load from positions used in the field. I have tried a variety of techniques at the bench using sandbags but have never felt that I had hit upon the best method for testing the gun/load potential. If your rest is the best way (other than a Ransom rest) I would be interested in possibly trying it. Thanks, Brian

I need some good honest info and well you guys are number one in that sector. I have a Savage 99e, production time I've been told anywhere from late 60's to early 80's, it's in 300savage now. And I wanna do some customizations on it. The stock is ugly. Looks like birch with clear nail polish on it. Squareish and just plain ugly. The rifle is 99.9 percent, ( I bought it NIB and fired 5 rounds, then my pectorals torn back open (car wreck, long story) put it back in the case, I'm healed now and almost back to normal). The first thing i wanna change is the stock, can I get a high quality synthetic one? I'm a user and an abuser. Then run like greased lightning but look like crap. I fall, trip, drop 'em and really like synthetics. Next I wanna know if I can re-chamber it to .308, just for a greater selection in ammo, and finally, does anyone do a finish similar to the one on my Glock? 'Cause I like that and it would go along the same lines as the stock.

Thanks, you guys rock!!!

Pauly,
I know of no one that makes a synthetic stock for that gun. For a durable matte black Teflon finish, contact Robar Corporation at: www.robarguns.com.
The finish is called Rogard, and is explained of their website.

Jeff

Jeff, in your article about the Ruger SS Bisley 45 Colt you said, "but the best groups were obtained using the excellent Cast Performance 335 grain wide long-nose bullets. These bullets, loaded with a healthy dose of Hodgdon's Li'l Gun powder". I too am using that bullet and powder in my Ruger Bisley 45 Colt. I am using 22.5 grains for 1230 fps. Is that safe or should I back off? The Hodgdon website lists 20.0 grains as a maximum load with that powder and bullet, giving a velocity of 1206 fps.

I have another question about bullet selection for lighter, plinking loads. I have been using a 250 grain RNFP with good results (either 6.2 grains of Titegroup for 850 fps or 10.0 grains of Universal Clays for 1050 fps) but I am considering trying either the Leadhead 270 Keith or the Dry Creek Bullet Works 275 Keith. I have heard that Keith bullets tend to be more accurate than the RNFP type. Is that true? Would I likely see better accuracy from the Leadhead or the Dry Creek (which company has better quality control)?

On another topic, I just bought the Ruger SS Bisley with the 5.5" barrel and adjustable sights. I also have the standard blued Bisley with 7.5" barrel. I called Ruger to ask why they cannot ream the cylinder throats to the proper dimension and told them that there is a big industry developed to fix their poorly dimensioned guns. They were basically clueless and I talked to one of the heads in customer service. Oh well. To get the new one shooting great will still cost much much less than to buy a Freedom Arms revolver.

Brian

That Lil'Gun load is probably okay in your Ruger. Look for hard extraction problems. If they come out easily, you are all right.

My favorite Keith bullet is made by Mt. Baldy Bullets in Cody, Wyoming. www.mtbaldybullets.com, phone 307-944-5631. Tell Frank that I say "Hello".

Most Rugers in .45 have too tight throats. Read this article: http://www.gunblast.com/Brownells_Reamer.htm.

Jeff

Jeff,

I read your excellent article on the .500 S&W, and in it you mentioned that
the gun jumped time consistently with the 440gr loads until you replaced
the cylinder stop spring. I picked up a 500 S&W and am having the same
problem with heavy loads. Do you know if S&W has made a change to their production revolvers to address this issue, and if so at what serial number did they begin making the change? If not, I'd like details on the stronger cylinder stop spring you installed: where to buy and what is the spring tension weight. Thanks so much for your help and an excellent website.

Regards,

Kurt

Kurt, as far as I know, S&W service is denying that there is a problem, but I do suggest that you call them first. I added two coils from a larger spring that I had on hand to the existing spring. If you get too heavy of a spring, the trigger will not return fully forward. Please let me know what S&W says when you call them.

Jeff

I have a question. I'm wondering which of the following scenarios wears out (weakens the springs) in a magazine faster. I've heard arguments both ways. Some say continual use, i.e. compressing and decompressing the springs, wears it out faster. The same person has said they found loaded, but unused, magazines 20 years later and they were practically brand new. Others say you should never store a magazine loaded because that is what wears them out the fastest. Where do you weigh in on the subject?

I try to rotate my magazines, keeping some loaded and some resting, but I have no proof either way. I can guarantee you that if you wear out your magazines by shooting a lot, you will be a much better marksman and the new magazines will be a welcome expense!

Jeff